Becoming a master craftsman
As temperatures began to drop and the season for rock climbing came to a close, I decided to once again pick up the tools. With the idea of attempting difficult mixed routes this Winter, I was interested to explore the benefits of dry tooling.
There was no grade I had to reach. The aim was simply to become more knowledgable.
Getting hooked
Fortunately I found an equally eager, but much more experienced climbing partner. Dan Moore, a mountain guide in the area, had spent some years playing in the forest of Nellenbalem above Grindelwald. With far better technique than myself, I could see how much progression there was to be made. The sensible strategy - do easy routes to hone and perfect my technique. But before I knew it, Dan’s contagious excitement convinced me to try a route I considered wildly out of my league.
This particular route being Blitz (D10+). Linking powerful, high-tension moves between good rests, I was immediately hooked. I could relate a lot of these aspects to sport climbing and knew this would be a good project for me. However, on my third go and after some fight, found myself at the anchor! Great, what’s next?
A new perspective
After the quick ascent of Blitz, I realised how I could apply my strength and tactics from sport climbing, to harder dry tooling routes. Despite my excitement I reminded myself that the focus here wasn’t the grade. It was about gaining experience and confidence in a variety of terrain. Returning with a new perspective, I looked for something completely different. I found it in the route, Monty Python (D11).
Traversing some 15 metres horizontally before turning upwards, Monty Python was completely different. It required power, precision and perhaps more importantly, mental resilience. Whilst the route gradually rises, so does the floor.
Pulling the hardest moves on wobbly edges, you’re very much aware that a fall could result in hitting the floor.
Working the route together with Dan we managed to figure out the beta. It was great fun and definitely felt like a good, hard project. And then again it wasn’t. After my fifth time on the route, I found myself quickly passing through one crux, then the other, and before I knew it, clipping the anchor. Something I really did not expect! Dan soon followed me and could also clip the chains.
Punishment for bad memory
A few days later and still somewhat surprised by my rapid progression, I was seeking a new challenge. Again, searching for more experience, I found myself looking at Flood (D10+). Flood was much longer than the other routes I’d climbed and includes a steep, off-width crack. The kind of feature you might find in the mountains. Dan jokingly said “its Difficult Crack on acid”. This made me happy as the Heckmair is obviously a route I would like to do.
With long dynamic reaches and very dubious placements, it was much more difficult than expected. After figuring out the first half I lowered down, very pumped. On my second attempt I tried to link this section. I did, just, immediately wishing I’d checked out the top half of the route. Approaching the off-width crack I dug my axes deep, torquing them to gain a little height. Somehow I made my way through. This section of wall is around 40 degrees overhanging and I still had 10m of climbing before the anchor. The fight was on! Exhausted, I carefully picked my way upwards and to the chains! I thought to myself, “wow, D10+ second go - not bad!”
That was until I remembered pulling passed the first few quickdraws to save time. This was very amusing to Dan and Alex who had realised this much earlier!
Whilst Alex and Dan climbed I contemplated having another go. But it was getting dark, and I was wrecked from my previous attempt. Alex pulled out a head torch from his bag and now I had no choice. Everything was much more difficult in the dark. Placements didn’t feel the same and finding them was a new challenge altogether. I battled my way through to the longest move on the route, a dynamic throw to an edge with just slopers for feet. I tried once, had to drop back down. I tried a second time but missed the edge. I was so pumped! It knew it was now or never. With my remaining power I tried a third time. Somehow hitting the edge perfectly, I moved quickly through to the rest before once again, wrestling the off-width crack.
Arms exploding I continued upwards, each movement requiring another rest. I was not going to fall now, not this close the anchor and not after such an epic battle! Powered on only by the epic music that was playing in the dark beneath me (we had two portable JBL speakers) I dug deep, and found the last of my energy. I could clip the anchor of Flood (D10+) once more!
A change of scenery
After such a battle on Flood, I was happy when Alex suggested a change of scenery. So we visited Eptigen - possibly the most famous dry tooling crag in the world. It was good to explore somewhere else as the style was different. Much more drilled but, experience is experience. We did Iceman (D8), Batgirl (D9-) and Joker (D10) second go.
It was great to see such progression. More importantly, I enjoyed learning something different each time. Plus, the harder the routes became, the more my sport climbing skills would help. Interesting and complex movements were now part of the game - instead of just ‘cranking’.
Becoming a master craftsman
Returning to Nellenbalem I was very excited. There was one route I had in my mind, but knew I might be overreaching. It’s the hardest route there (if you don’t count the link-ups) and the name really attracted me. So, I decided to try Master Craftsman (D11+/12-). For a route to be given such a name, I imagined it demanded the performance of an excellent dry tooler. I expected to find small, natural edges where only precision and good technique would allow you to pass.
Following a powerful start, you’re greeted with the crux of the route. A single, small sloping edge, in an otherwise blank section of rock. You have to be slow and precise. Any wobble would usually result in a fall. Without any respite, the route continues with more powerful and dynamic climbing. It was certainly a step above the other routes I had done.
After my second go I had done all the moves, and spurred on by my climbing partner, decided to give it go. I was definitely fatigued and much shakier as I approached the sloping edge. Opting for the ‘hook and hope’ method I slowly crept my way through. It worked! Waisting no time I connected one powerful move after another until I eventually found a rest. But it wasn’t over. Above me, a steep roof with hidden placements. Worse it was getting dark. Reaching up from my resting position I took the wrong placement. The tool ripped. I held it. Searching again, I found the correct placement and trusted it with all my weight.
My arms were numb; but my experience from Flood told me that I could continue. Moving upwards I was anxious, as I knew that I could blow the last piece of the puzzle. With sloping foot placements and a small side-pull edge, I reach out right, as high as possible towards the anchor. I hooked the jug. But my arms were so numb I almost let go! Matching my tool I took one last shake, pulled the rope through and clipped the anchor.
D11+/12- on my third go. Had I just become a master of this craft? Certainly not.
However I couldn’t have been more pleased with my progression and the experience i’d gained. I couldn’t wait to get on some mixed climbs, for that would be the real test.
A massive thank you to Dan, Alex and Lulu for their patience, pictures and good laughs.