First Ascent of Groovyfied 8c

Malham Cove is iconic sport climbing crag in the Yorkshire Dales. There’s nothing quite like it. A gigantic cove that extends some 70 metres above the river below. Gradually overhanging it has a reputation for being fierce on the feet and difficult to read. It is well known for hosting some of the country’s, if not the worlds, best test pieces.

Last year I was close to climbing my hardest project yet. A route named Unjustified (8b+) that tackles the first overhang via powerful movements before gaining a pumpy headwall. Not the hardest singular moves but completely sustained  – you barely get a rest through the entire climb! Just one little mistake or inefficient move could effect your chances. I began feeling close but then the winter came and the conditions deteriorated. I just had to walk away…

Returning this Spring I was determined to get it done! Rehearsing all the moves again I quickly began making good links. That’s when I noticed a possible new extension. Just left of Unjustified is The Groove (8a+) – an amazing route that climbs through to the upper tier of Malham. I soon released how difficult it would be to pull off! Doing so much power endurance climbing before facing the technical headwall of the Groove would make for a pumpy number! A new route at Malham and certainly far beyond anything I had climbed before.